Mutual Aid Fire

The following was sent to us from Capt. Austin ENFD…good stuff

SAN BERNARDINO COUNTY FIRE DEPARTMENT
TAILBOARD SAFETY SESSION

The sheetrock described below is a new type and has a paper thin layer of Lexan laminated into the sheet, under the paper, on at least one side. In this configuration, the Lexan adds strength to the gypsum material and prevents anything from easily penetrating the sheet, including firefighters. The material has been showing up in areas of high crime or where extra security is needed and in buildings where there were party walls that allowed a perpetrator to kick through the wall and travel from unit to unit.

The sheetrock described below is probably being used and we do not know it. REMEMBER, it wasn’t that long ago when roll down gates, doors or scissor gates across the entrances to buildings was an oddity. Ordinarily, we should be able to kick thru sheetrock even if it is on both sides of the studs. This new stuff will NOT allow that action as you can read below.

Our need to kick thru walls is basically for one of two reasons: because we are trapped, and time is working against us, or we are trying to access a victim and the wall breach is the most rapid manner.

Breaching this new material is VERY time consuming with hand tools. We would most likely be performing this action under considerable stress, with potentially low air; high heats conditions, and possibly zero visibility with very little time. The fact that the outcome we expect, easily kicking thru, is not happening will increase the stress level, more rapidly deplete our air supply, and cause a significant amount of panic. Remember to take tools, tools, and more tools, when you enter a building during fire operations because of the unknown and the potential to be trapped.

THINGS TO REMEMBER:
1. Be aware of fire conditions.

2. Always have forcible entry/egress tools with you - Axe, Hook, Haligan or all of the above.
A hose line is not a forcible entry/egress tool!

3. Have a back-up plan for you and your crew - be able to rapidly locate and open doors and
windows for rapid egress.

4. Know where you and your crew are in the building at all times and your approximate
relationship to your exit points. (P.P.P.N – Personnel, Position, Progress, Needs)

5. Note primary and secondary means of access and egress (size, number, arrangement) as
you approach the building to carry out your assignment.

6. Cut ALL window bars off ALL windows of the occupancy ALL the time when
personnel are operating inside.

7. Remove any other security measures that could impede access to trapped members or
their self-rescue attempts.

8. The time to disable these security measures is not when someone sounds a mayday.9. Becoming trapped can and will happen, to you or someone you know, anytime in the fire operation - BE AWARE!

10 When Fire Prevention sees or knows of this new material being used, pass it on so the companies can go look at the application during its installation.

Test Process:

Numerous basic hand tools were used to attempt to breach the Hi-Impact 8000 Wallboard. The concept of the test was to determine if an opening large enough, to accommodate an escaping firefighter, could be created and to determine which tools worked best to breach the wallboard. The firefighter was positioned on his knees to simulate being in a fire condition.

Test Results and Findings:

Below is a list of the basic firefighting hand tools used in the test, how many times the wallboard was struck by the firefighter, and if the wallboard was breached.

Tool Times struck Results

8lb. Maul (striking end) 14 Did not breach wallboard

12lb. Sledgehammer 14 Did not breach wallboard
Broken wall stud

8lb. Pick-head axe (Blade) 38 Penetrated wall on 6th swing
Created hole large enough for firefighter

Halligan bar 30 Penetrated wall on 4th swing
Created hole large enough for firefighter

8lb. Flat-head axe (striking end) 18 Did not breach wallboard

8lb. Maul (cutting end) 19 Penetrated wall and broke wall stud

As shown in the table above, all of the striking tools were proven ineffective in breaching the Hi-Impact 8000 Wallboard. The cutting tools proved to be most effective, usually penetrating the Lexan in less than 10 swings. The Lexan did not break easily after being struck but it did crack enough to become pliable enough to bend while the firefighter crawled through the hole.

Things to consider:􀂾 While you are crawling through the wall the Lexan has tendency to get caught up on personal protective equipment and will possibly cut or rip the PPE with the sharp edges.
The amount of time it took to create a hole large enough to accommodate a firefighter’s size. If fire conditions are deteriorating, the firefighter is already at increased risk.

This test was performed with the Hi-Impact 8000 Wallboard on only 1 side of the stud. Chances are if this product is encountered, it will be mounted to both sides of the studs, therefore at least doubling the amount of time and effort to breach the wall in an emergency situation.

Conclusion:
It was demonstrated that breaching the Hi-Impact 8000 Wallboard has a high resistance to impact forces brought on by striking tools. The tool of choice when this product is encountered is a cutting tool. This test further stresses the fact that departments need to get out in their response areas (even auto or mutual aid areas) and know what kind of building materials are being used.

Test Performed by:
Firefighter/Paramedic Sean Murphy - Roberts Park Fire Protection District
Firefighter/Paramedic Matthew Duzak - Roberts Park Fire Protection District

Helmet lights are by far one of the most useful pieces of personal equipment a fire fighter can have. When mounted on your lid, no matter what you may be doing, the light
is always right where you need it. The helmet light will allow you to have hands free operation. Take pulling ceilings for an example, while you are looking up at the ceiling your light is aiming right where you need it, allowing the fire fighter to use both hands and work more efficiently.

Another example and one the most important is when searching, the fire fighter can use both hands to search instead of holding a box light with one leaving only one hand to clear obstructions and search for the victim. When forcing a door using conventional forcible entry or performing the through the lock forcible entry, your light is pointing directly where your eyes are looking allowing both hands to operate with.

There are many different brands, styles and sizes of lights on the market.There are also many different ways to mount it. When purchasing a personal helmet light there are a couple of things to consider. One, how bright is the light and how well does it cut through the smoke. I have found that a light that has more of a beam when in smoke tends to cut through better than one with more of a flood type pattern.

Another consideration is the battery life and the availability of the type of batteries that your light takes. One of the most important factors in my opinion is the way that you mount your light. Obviously you want your light to aim where your eyes are looking. One would also want it to be as low profile as possible to avoid snagging on wires or other obstructions. There are many contraptions on the market today that are made for holding your light but many are not very low profile. I have found that the best and most inexpensive way to mount your light is to attach it with electrical tape to a rubber strap on your helmet, this method keeps your light both secure and low profile.

Below are just a few examples of different brands of lights and ways to mount
each. Whatever brand of light or method of mounting your light that you choose is up to you, but if you want to work smarter and not harder, it’s not an option!

<

Matt Scalan ECFR E-319

“Hey kid, Chock that door!”

There are many different ideas on how to chock a door. These pictured above are a few that I have run across in the past. Now I am not going to say that one is better than another but I will picture a few and show what each is good for and the many different functions that each can perform. However the door is chocked, just remember the importance of doing so in order to control it and most importantly keep it from closing on your hose line or worse, delaying you and your crew if you would have to evacuate in a timely manor.

The masonry nail has only one function in which it can perform and is pictured above. The nail is placed head towards the jamb and point toward the door, pull door as if you were going to close it and the nail will stab into the door holding the nail in place and keeping the door open. Another advantage of the masonry nail is if you have many doors to control a hand full of these can easily be carried.

This door control devise is easily constructed with a wooden dowel and a bent over nail into the top of it. This devise is easily deployed and light- weight but does not keep the door open as wide as we would like.

This is the 1119 door chock. As you can see it has many functions and is easily constructed by threading a plant hook into the top and then wrapping it with electrical tape. The electrical tapes allows the wedge to get a better grip when used under the door and adds extra strength from splitting when used in the hinge. This wedge, when used in the hinge, holds the door almost all of the way open giving us maximum use of the doors opening. The 1119 wedge can also be used to control a garage door by inserting the hook in a hole in the track of the door as shown in the above picture.

“The standard wedge” I am not going to talk a lot about this guy. This is the most widely used in the fire service. It works good is light- weight and easily constructed. It can also be used in the hinge area but as soon as someone walks by and pushes on the door to open it, the wedge will fall out and now will let the close behind you.

This door control devise is one that I have constructed out of ½ inch poly plastic. This device works rather well under the door as well as in the hinge. The size of this thing makes it a little difficult to carry and to pull out of your pocket very quickly. It is fairly light- weight and holds the door open to a perfect 90 degree angle and because of the notch it does not fall out.

This one here is fairly common and works really well. It is constructed by welding a planter hook onto a piece of angle steel, one can also drill a hole in the center and insert an s-hook through the hole and crimp down the end that is through the angle. This is one of the heavier door control devises but is very effective and durable.

This is the Caro hinge hanger. This one is easily constructed with a wooden dowel and a nail hammered into the side then bent over. The Caro hinge hanger is very light- weight and just as effective but sometimes has the tendency to twist out of place when put under a heavy load such as encountered with a heavy duty pneumatic commercial door closer.

The Wichita wedge is a very easily constructed and also effective door control devise. The Wichita wedge is basically the standard wedge with a notch cut into it so it can set in the doors hinge. The only downfall of this wedge is when the door is pushed to the closed position this device tends to split and now the door will close behind you.

STAY SAFE BROTHERS!
By: Matt Scallan
ECFR Engine 319
Matt is one of our “westside” contributors from Escambia County Fire/Rescue. He works on one of the busiest companies in the county and has also submitted material another great training site vententersearch.com Check em’ out!